The package of blank boards got to Mono-drop, and he immediately started building up the cards. He is the test case to see if others can build OPP boards by themselves. There was only one problem. The documentation wasn’t ready. Turns out that you can mail something from MA to somewhere in the southwest, and it can get there in about 2 days. I was expecting it to take a little bit longer so I would have time to put the documentation together. My bad for not having the documentation finished. Through some email exchanges, he got the wing boards built and attached to the microprocessor card. The great part about this is it forced me to take the pictures necessary to fill out the documentation. The document is pretty close to finished at this point. I still need to add information on building the new incandescent boards because depending on if you want high side switches or low side switches depends on how many MOSFETs are populated.
Link to board assembly document: populateBrd.pdf
So Mono-drop went through the excitement of building up the boards, got them finished, and then immediately asked how to program the boards. I quickly sent him off a couple instructions on how to get that to work. He hasn’t gotten back to me yet, but hopefully that went well for him. Once he finishes those instructions (should take only a minute or two), he should be able to attach the boards to his whitewood and start flipping. (I hope that happens soon, because it will be great to see another project using the OPP hardware flipping.)
On Saturday (3/12/2016), I received the new version of the incandescent boards. It took about 4 weeks this time, but I mostly blame that on the Chinese New Year. (I did get 10% off, which is why the extra week doesn’t bother me). This was the first time using the panellization from Iteadstudio. Basically, a v-cut is used to make separating boards easier. Before I was using a tile saw which worked, but it was very time consuming and not very accurate. (The wing cards need to sit flush with each other, and there is probably only about 20 mil of tolerance on each card.) This meant I would tile saw the cards, then use a Dremel tool to shave off more of the card to get closer to the proper size, and finally use sandpaper, to remove the final bit of material. All said and done, it would take me an hour to cut the cards apart for an order. With the v-cut, all you need to do is gently flex the board one way, then back the other way a couple of times, and the boards break right apart perfectly. Very, very nice. Coming up with a way to separate the boards was the last technical hurdle that needed to be overcome. Check!
This past weekend, started work on the Kickstarter video. It is a sad state of affairs when I need to talk in front of a camera. After spending a couple of hours to get multiple takes on everything that I wanted to say, I’ve currently got about a four and a half minute video. The goal was a two and a half minute video. I guess I’m a slow talker. (I also didn’t take into account the amount of stuttering that occurs). Showed the raw “can” footage to Joe, and he basically said, well, it needs to be better. Crap. Joe says, “I want a comedic intro.” OK. He’s going to help me work on that this weekend. His “Theatre of the Mind” skits are great, so hopefully that will work out. Note to Joe: I would have linked to the skits here, but I couldn’t find any location that wasn’t part of a large podcast.
Strangely, he mentioned he never saw a video of SharpeShooter III working. I went back through my videos, and he is absolutely right, I never took any. I’m kind of bummed because it was in a good state before Pintastic, and then I tried a bunch of fixes and never put it back together the right way. I’m planning on replacing all of the incandescent boards in it so I can run them through Mission Pinball Framework.