Yesterday the boards came in from ITeadStudio. Their newest cheap shipping option (SF E-Parcel) is really fast. So I ordered the boards on 1/5/2017 (yeah, it was late Thursday night). They shipped the boards on 1/12/2017. I received the boards on 1/18/2017. That’s about a two week turn including shipping which is really fast. The shipping was only about $14 for two sets (10 boards) of 10cm x 10cm boards. Nice! Unfortunately my cheap 36V SMPS power supply hasn’t arrived yet, but as soon as that gets here, I can do some quick testing on the power filter board. It is such a simple board that it should only take a day to verify it is working properly.
I built up a filter board tonight and took a couple pictures. I’m happy after visually inspecting the boards, and look forward to getting the power supply to test even further. This should clean up the back box of SS3 and make it quieter (the 4 cheap PC power supplies that I used have very loud fans. It doesn’t matter when the glass is in the backbox, but when debugging, the fan noise is bothersome.) I must also say, that I’m really sick of listening to the theme song to “The Good, The Bad and The Ugly”. When playing, a game, it plays continuously on a loop. I think that I could sing it in my sleep at this point.
The power filter board can be used to add bulk cap to 2 voltages or to 1 voltage. (plated through holes are provided to tie the two planes together if the board is only used for a single voltage which is the configuration that I built up). In that case, you only need one NTC thermistor, and one PChannel FET. In the two voltage situation, you need two of those parts. The board should insure that the SMPS will not incorrectly detect a spike when flippers are activated.
The bottom 6 pin connector contains 3 pins for each of the voltage sections. For each section, one pin is ground, and the other pin enables the PChannel FET if it is grounded. That can be controlled by a processor, or if you want to always have the voltage on, you can just use a 100 mil jumper between the ground pin and the PChannel FET. If you want it to act like a normal pinball machine, you can add a normally closed switch on the cabinet door, and when the door is opened it breaks the connection and disables the high power voltage. The last pin provides a digital output that can be read by a processor to check if the voltage is enabled. (Just a simple voltage divider to provide the appropriate voltage for your processor). That allows a message to be printed on an LCD screen or whatever. Hey, the board even has two indicator LEDs to indicate that the voltage is hot.
I also now have all the parts for the Dolly retheme. It is going to take a couple days for me to build up the OPP boards, but since I just received the Bally interface boards, nothing is stopping me from starting on that machine. I’m currently moving faster on that machine than I was expecting. Below is the blurriest picture ever to be added as part of a blog. (Sorry). I didn’t realize it was so blurry until after I took it off the camera, and I was too lazy to take another picture.
The large slashes through the connectors done in silkscreen note the pins on the connectors that are keyed. That should make it easier to plug and unplug connectors because you can scan the key in the connector and line it right up. That board hasn’t been populated yet.