6/24/2017 – Some new videos of game play

This is mostly for the people who subscribe to the blog but aren’t subscribed to the youtube channel.  Last couple of days have been very busy.  While trying to fix the light bulbs, I accidentally pulled out the connector for the ground of the transformer.  This caused all sorts of issues, included blowing up some of the MOSFETs.  After struggling for a couple of days and fixing things piecemeal, I simply gave up.  I replaced the two OPP cards that drive all the solenoids.  It was about $20 in parts and about 1 hour in soldering to build the new cards but the savings in my angst was well worth it.  I didn’t have some parts on hand so there was a Mouser order involved.  I now have a much better supply of MOSFETs.

I switched from the cheap MOSFETs (FQP13N06L) to using IRL540 MOSFETs.  In the first cards, I had a couple IRL540s and mostly FQP13N06L.  After accidentally disconnecting the ground (actually the current return for the high voltage solenoids), it turns out that many of the FQP13N06L either failed or failed later after several games.  Below is the sequence of events:

  • I lifted the playfield to adjust some bulbs.  I pulled too hard on the cable at some point, and it pulled the connector off the transformer that returns the current for the solenoids.
  • Lowered the playfield, and started playing a quick game.  At some point during the game, I noticed that one of the sling shots was on constantly.  (It was stuck on for a while before I noticed it…maybe 30 seconds).  Performed a test or two and proved it was the MOSFET.  Soldered in a new MOSFET, and started a new game.
  • Almost immediately another MOSFET failed.  This time it was the knocker.  Once again, tested, and this time I simply desoldered the high voltage wire to the knocker.  (The knocker isn’t currently used in the game code).  At this point I thought something was wrong but I didn’t know what.
  • Powered it up and started playing again.  I can’t remember, but I think the other slingshot failed at this time.
  • Finally powered everything off and checked the connections.  Found the two sides of the high current return connector were almost completely off.  Plugged those back in.
  • Now everything should work.  Powered everything up and after batting the ball around for a while, either a slingshot or a pop bumper failed.
  • Frustration set in.  Gripe a lot and eventually go to bed.  Next day looked around in the bin of built cards and found I had enough to replace the OPP board that had 8 solenoids on it.  Built that card into a full card, and threw it in the machine.
  • After about 5 minutes of playing the new card fails with one of the slingshots being locked on.  (I can’t remember if it is the same slingshot that was locked on for 30 seconds or if it was the other slingshot).
  • Got frustrated again and decided that I was going to replace all the MOSFETs with IRL540s since none of those failed.  Made order from Mouser.

So that’s the whole story.  Why did the FQP13N06L fail after I reconnected the ground?  Could it be that I now have a solenoid with an internal short somewhere in the coil.  I don’t know, but at this point, it is working.  Could be I have a ticking time bomb that will fail during Pintastic.  Only time will tell.

Here are the two videos that were done yesterday.  I apologize for the scattered commentary but the kids felt they needed to ask me questions during it, and pass me notes, so I repeat things often.

Here is another video of the white wood mode.  I finally realized that using the target at the end of the inline drops is not going to work because it simply traps the ball.  (Scott Danesi could have told me that earlier, but I’m not trying to achieve a Danesi lock.)  I ended up moving the reset to the Eddy target for white wood mode.   During the real game, it waits a couple of seconds for the ball to drop out of the inlines, then resets it.  I wonder how the old Dolly code reset the inlines?  It had to be a hit of a separate target, or maybe it never reset them until the next ball:

Here is a second video showing the OPP Pinball Framework and rules driving the machine.  You could see scoring happening, but well, I set up the camera too low so it got cut off.   Sorry.  I try to explain some of the rules.  It seems really easy to collect Alex (5 hits for each letter in the pop bumpers), so that might need to be increased to 10 hits per letter.

Speaking of Pintastic… it happens on July 7-8th, 2017.  The machine will be there in the freeplay room.    (I’m also planning on bringing SharpeShooter 3 again).  My seminar is at 3:00 pm on Friday, July 7th on general pinball electronics.  I will probably spend the last part of talk discussing a little bit about the making of the Van Halen machine.  Dave Marston said he is setting up two different times when I will be hanging around the two OPP machines in the free play area and I’ll give tours under the playfield, in the back box, etc.  Let people see how it all works and ask questions.  Supposedly there is going to be a time on Friday and a time on Saturday for that.  Like I said

At the seminar on Friday, I will be giving away a bunch of free stuff…also known as parts that I removed from Dolly and no longer need anymore.  I’ll also give away another set of OPP bare boards.  If you sit through my seminar, you deserve a chance at some free gifts.

I will be around all weekend.  So even if it isn’t one of the designated times, simply stop me, and ask me questions.  (On Friday I’ll be wearing an OPP T-shirt, so that should be a dead give away)  The machines are there until 10 pm on Saturday, so after I get sick of playing pinball, I’ll look forward to talking to people about their homebrew pinball ideas.

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5 responses to “6/24/2017 – Some new videos of game play

  1. Looking good Hugh!

    bummer about the MOSFETs and rebuilding, kind of afraid of that myself and I don’t have enough parts to rebuild (yet, will add more spares to next mouser order).

    I played around with the Dolly visual pinball table and from what I can tell the inline drop targets only reset at the next ball.

  2. That was my guess on the inline targets after thinking about it for a while. Thanks for figuring it out. If I spend the whole weekend clearing the ball from the inline targets, I probably change the code to use the Eddy target on the left to reset them. Right now it waits 3 seconds for the ball to drop out of the inlines, then resets them. Of course, during that 3 seconds, the player could hit the ball back into the inlines that would cause an issue. Switching it to the Eddy target, or really any target where you are guaranteed to know the location of the ball would fix that problem.

  3. Hugh,

    I feel your pain. Soo close makes you want to pull the hair out of your head. especially multiple failures on parts, dumping a whole board and starting over. Arrrrrrgggghhhhhh

  4. Hugh,

    Any chance of having your presentation taped from Pintastic and playback for youtube.
    Love to see your presentation, unfortunately there is little chance of me traveling to Pintastic to see it.

    • My talk in 20015 was recorded, but that video has now been lost in time since the person who posted it removed it. I should have grabbed it before it went away. I’m going to try to record the seminar myself this year and I’ll post it if it works out. One of the things I really like about Expo is that they tape and post most talks so they are available to watch even though won’t get a chance to attend Expo. If I’m at a seminar, I will try to record it and post it, but there are no promises. (This year the presentation is on basic pinball electronics and at the end I will talk about Van Halen). There are also supposed to be two times (one on Friday, one on Saturday) where I’ll be available, and pop the glass off Sharpe Shooter 3 and Van Halen to show modifications, how they work, etc.

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